Bali’s twin brother sits just to the west. It’s a primeval place, watched over by the sleeping giant of Mount Rinjani: an active volcano of 3,726 meters in height that you can climb in two days if you’re feeling it. If you’re not, no worries. The shoreline of Senggigi is a glimpse of what Bali was 40 years ago, stretching with black-tinged sands past rows of lanky coconut trees. To surf, make for Kuta Lombok in the south. Timber shacks huddle just meters back from a big bay there, while fishermen double as taxi rides out to rolling reef breaks.

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